A large part of growing into adulthood means accepting life's bitter aspects.
This is true in many contexts-love and the weather come quickest to mind. But in the world of food and drink, it's a literal transition. As human beings grow older, they leave behind the treacly sweet tastes of youth and learn to appreciate the subtler pleasures of bitterness.
What do kids like to eat?
Chocolate pudding, Pixie Stix, Laffy Taffy and Cap'n Crunch. We used to eat entire jars of cake frosting while our mothers looked on in horror.
But now?
Hot black espresso, please. Caviar on blinis. Black Morrocan olives and oysters in brine. Pickles, gravlax, broccoli rabe and crunchy greens. We revel in the hop tang of lager beers, the bittersweet bite of dark Swiss chocolate. And when we come back to those luridly sweet candies of our youth, we smile at their familiarity, but we just can't choke them down the way we used to.

So if one's adult tastes tend toward bitterness, what is the adult beverage to accompany such fare? The answer, which by now should surprise no one who knows us, is to match bitter foods with bitter wines. By that, we do not mean wine with an unpleasant bite that spoils things. Bad wine is bad wine, no matter what you're eating. But certain wines have what we call a 'pleasing astringency.' We are referring to a certain textural snap in the finish, either from acidity or grapeskin tannin, that enlivens the palate and refreshes the taster after each sip. It's occasional in reds; it's more frequent in whites.

If you want to know what we're talking about, try a bottle of Brunori Verdicchio 'San Nicolo' 2002 ($14.99). The Verdicchio grape grows in the Marches region of eastern Italy, primarily in the towns of Castelli di Jesi on the coast and Matelica further in from shore. Verdicchio wines are dry, full-flavored and licoricey, with that tell-tale snap prominent in the tail. Fresh fish is a no-brainer with it; but the wine gets really interesting when it’s paired with bitter greens like amaranth and broccoli rabe or dishes involving anise and fennel. The edge of the wine collides with the bite of the vegetables in such a way that both are enhanced, leaving the taster a little thirstier and a little hungrier than before. A little sweet sausage for contrast, and you’ve achieved a sensational, regional food-wine experience.

Other white wines that typically deliver the so-called 'pleasing astringency' include Muscadet from the Loire, e.g., Domaine de la Pepiere 2003 ($10.99), and Gruner Veltliner from Austria, such as the Sommer ($10.99). Oysters, salads and fish with lots of fresh parsley work wonderfully with these. Also, in honor of the Summer Games in Greece, try Haggipavlu Moschofilera 2003 ($12.99) from the Pelopenesis, a zesty, aromatic partner for any of the aforementioned foods.

Reds that nip at you nicely are led by Cabernet Franc, the herbaceous red wine of Chinon and Saumur, again in the Loire. Nancy's carries a dozen of these wines in the awesome 2002 vintage, starting with the Caves Des Vignerons Saumur (just $7.99!). There's also a cluster of light red wines valued for their astringency in northern Italy, including Bardolino, Refosco and Lambrusco. Our Tenuta Quercioli Lambrusco 'Solo' ($12.99) works perfectly with the salty, savory salumi and olives of the sub-Alpine provinces. Or if you want a BIG red with bite, look for the Arnaldo-Caprai Montefalco Rosso 2000 ($21.99), made from Sagrantino, officially the most naturally tannic red wine in the world. Grilled lamb with a black olive tapenade would be miraculous with this vinous monster from Umbria. Also try the ancient ink-dark wine of Madiran, made from Tannat and Cabernet, produced by Chateau Bouscasse ($14.99) in southern France, a combination of ferrous minerality, black fruit and fresh blood. Sound scary? Pour it with a peppery beef stew or char-broiled duck and become a convert.

The world's most famous and expensive astringent wine? Champagne of course. Its low sugar and high acidity scratches at your palate, while those prickly little bubbles snap at you like a jealous lover.

Ah... just another reminder of how bittersweet life is.

Evans P. Spingarn
October 2004