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Champagne is one of the most complex topics in the
wine world, the subject of lengthy books and
monographs. It also tends to be expensive, which drops
peoples' willingness to experiment with it down to
roughly zero. With that in mind, here are some tips on
buying the wines intelligently and avoiding the pitfalls
of
a much-hyped category.

Champagne is not always the best bubbly to serve. It's
rich and attention-grabbing.
Lighter offerings
like
Prosecco, German Sekt, and Cremant are less
expensive and often more appropriate. If you're making
mimosas, a nice $10 Cava will do the job.

Close to 90% of the U.S. Champagne market is ruled by
20 brands. Not because they're better, but simply
because they're wealthier and they can afford to
advertise.
If you're willing to try some of the
other
2,000 brands made in Champagne, you will be vastly
rewarded. Most of them are hand-made, carefully
crafted, small-production gems from first press juice,
1er cru vineyards and great terroirs.
[At
Nancy's we
work with a handful of American importers to bring in
the best of the best "grower" Champagnes at
absolutely fair prices.]
Click here to see
notes on three of our favorites for this holiday season.

In miniscule letters at the bottom of almost every
Champagne label, you will see a code consisting of two
letters and a string of numbers. The letters are the
giveaway:
- NM means 'negociant
manipulant',
a winery that buys its grapes-most Champagne houses
you've heard of are NM.
- RM means 'recoltant manipulant', a
winery that grows its
own fruit, makes the wine, bottles it and ships it. RM
wines are always more interesting wines than NM, as
they are small production, hand-crafted wines that
reflect their individual terroirs. RM is the wine to look
for.
- CM means 'cooperative manipulant', a
co-
op of farmers who band together under one
cellarmaster to make and market their wines. Some are
good, some ar not. Consult your merchant.
- MA means 'marque d'acheteur', a
wine made specifically for a restaurant or retailer so
they can slap their own label on it. Vanity projects,
they are often called. Beware.

Would you prefer the crisp, refreshing, very dry,
minerally style that works best with oysters and caviar?
Or would you rather have the rich, full-bodied, malty,
toasty style that you can serve throughout a meal?
One more choice: how about a rosé?

Vintage Champagne is good for about the first ten
years of its life. Otherwise, nonvintage Champagne
(which is the vast majority of production) is meant to
be drunk immediately.
Do not store a
bottle in your
fridge for three years-it will be bad. And life's too short
to drink bad Champagne...
Our Champagne recommendations... »
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It's that time of year again - when the number of
parties you're invited to exceeds the number of days of
the week. By now the revelry is hitting its annual
frenzied peak, and like every other year, you're
probably bringing wine with you wherever you go. But
which wines? And how much should they cost? With all
of the other things to worry about, here are a few tips
to ease the holiday wine-buying burden.
The numbers $15 and $20 are sacred numbers to many
wine consumers. Within this "magic" range, some folks
feel certain that they can find a wine that will taste
good and won't make them look cheap.
Depending on the store, this may or may not be true.
There are plenty of $16.99 bottles out there that fall
flat at a party, whether it's because they're too
structured or too demanding on the palate--or just
downright awful!
So don't start by asking for your wine by price. First
choose a wine that best fits the occasion.
Cocktail party?
Light to medium bodied, smooth textured, and fun.
Dinner party?
Something versatile, that can go with fish or meat
without a hassle.
Celebration?
Try bubbles.
After you've made this preliminary decision, then get a
wine you feel comfortable paying for--whether it's $5,
$10, $20, whatever. If you're visiting your in-laws or
attending a gathering where the focus is on the wine,
perhaps you want to spring for something a little more
elegant.
But, if the bottle is just going to be plunked
down next to seven others on a kitchen counter or
living room table, go with fun over formality--it's
almost always the better choice.
If you're still stuck on spending "between $15 and $20,"
bring two less expensive bottles. Hey--the more the
merrier.
If I had a nickel for every out-of-balance, oaky,
unappealing Chardonnay, Merlot, or Cabernet I've had
at holiday fiestas, we'd all be partying at the
Four Seasons like it was 1999, my treat.
In the heat and noise of a good party, the human
palate is way more responsive to livelier varietals like
Zinfandel, Syrah, or Riesling. Also, wines made from
these grapes often have a better value/price ratio than
the 'big 3'.
And by asking for something slightly to the left of
mainstream, you reduce the chance of getting a
mediocre, mass-produced wine that the store is just
trying to push because they got a great deal on 100
cases.
Here's a scene from a movie that we've all played the
starring role in:
It's twenty past ten -- the party officially started at
nine, and you've still got to cross the park and head
down fifty blocks before you're even in the right
neighborhood -- oh yeah, and you still need to pick up
the wine.
Unless you know your wine store backwards and
forwards and can make a beeline to a favorite bottle,
it's likely that you will spend a few minutes fumbling
around looking for a label you recognize at a price you
want to pay. "Hmm, was it the
Vintner's Reserve or the Proprietor's Special
Select...?"
Don't torture yourself.
When armed with the right information from you, any
staff member who knows their stuff should be able to
hand you the right bottle in under thirty seconds.
You just have to inform them of three vital details:
- You're in a rush/running late for a party
- You want a fun bottle to be consumed at the party
itself, without food.
- You want to spend between $X and $Y
Given these keys to your preferences and situation, the
salesperson should reach straight for the rack and pull
out the perfect bottle for you--and now you're sure
that you've got the bottle you think that you do at the
right price--all in under a minute.
This advice is especially pertinent if you need a white
wine, as the staff will know which of the inventory is
available cold. Some stores even keep a few extras of
popular party favorites in the fridge.
If you're still completely flummoxed, don't worry -- head
over to Nancy's or give us a call and let us take care of
you. Each of us has done our fair share of partying and
will be happy to lead you to the perfect bottles for all
your celebrations. Happy Holidays!
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| Nancy's Champagne Recommendations |
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As Nancy says:
"A day without bubbles is a day not
worth living."
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